Rome, Italy, July 2000
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| St Peter's |
I arrived in Rome's airport on Friday afternoon, May 12th and took a comfortable, fast train into the city. Love watching the beautiful country side pass by and than the edges of Rome itself. Also didn't hinder that a handsome Roman was flirting with me on the train. Another major city with good transportation to/from their airport, so unlike my own NYC.
After all the "horror" stories I'd heard about Rome's train station, I was "disappointed". It was clean, easy to obtain information and I was soon on a bus, headed towards my B & B, which was near Piazza Navona. A charming, timbered, high-ceilinged room with antique furniture and a big crystal chandelier was located in the very heart of Caravaggio's neighborhood. He'd lived at Cardinal del Monte's palace, now Palazzo Madama, two blocks from my B & B. There was a lovely couple from Brazil staying there also and we'd spend breakfast sharing notes on our adventures.
I quickly unpacked and set out to explore the area around the B & B. My first stop was only 3 blocks away, the Piazza Navona, with it's beautiful Bernini fountains. Than it was only a short walk through charming, narrow, cobble stone streets, lined with antique shops & boutiques, to Castel san Angelo, with views of St Peter's from the bridge crossing the Tiber. Oh yes, I really was in Rome. Watched the sun set in sight of the Dome of St Peter's and than wandered along the Tiber, had a light dinner and after stopping again at Piazza Navona for a double scoop of gelaterie (Italian ice cream) headed home for a good night's sleep.
I'd decided to focus my stay in Rome on paintings by a favorite artist, Caravaggio and works of Bernini. which have made Rome the beautiful Baroque city it is. Bernini's fountains, Piazzas, churches and sculptures can be seen at every turn. The highlight must have been, The Ecstasy of St Teresa, one of the most erotic religious works I've ever seen. So the first morning I headed towards San Lugi dei Francesi with it's three panels of St Matthew's life. Amazing to just be able to stand in a public space and see these late 15th century masterpieces. New York wasn't even a trading post yet. Along the way I stopped at san Agostino and saw Caravaggio's Martyr of St Peter and Conversion of St Paul. What powerful paintings, with both an intense sense of ecstasy and eroticism, along with his amazing use of light.
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| The Ecstasy of St Teresa |
Another Caravaggio highlight was the trip to Villa Borghese, arranged by my lovely guide, Elle Visser, who had lead me through St Peter's and the Vatican museums. The Borghese collection included his Sick Little Bacchus, St Jerome, St John the Baptist, Mary Magdalen and the intense David with the Head of Goliath with his self portrait in the severed head of Goliath.
The early 17th Century Borghese is a MUST-SEE, having only reopened after many years of renovations. It also houses a number of Bernini's masterpieces, Apollo and Daphne, along with Pluto and Persephone which looks like living flesh frozen in marble. And his incredible version of David, a selfportrait at 25, makes easy to understand why he was such a "ladies-man". Surrounding the Villa is a huge park where one could wander for days with it's Bernini's Fontana dei Cavalli Marini, Temple of Diana, Temple of Aesculaspius on an artificial lake and from it's Western edge, views of Piazza de Popolo and Rome's hills.
I also found, I've started a "new" collection during this trip (definition of collection = three or more pieces) by adding two more watches to the Caravaggio watch I bought in Florence two years ago.
Not to be ignored, are the impressive ruins of ancient Rome which spring up from below the current city, such as the Area Sarca, the Pantheon and the many ancient columns now marking Christian churches. By far the most impressive was the Colosseum. Even in it's state of ruin, it's easy to imagine huge crowds gathering within it's walls. And walking through the Forum with my Canadian tour-guide, Mark Anthony, I imagined how beautiful it all must have been at the height of the Roman Empire. Mark created the feel of a lost era as we walked where Caesar, Brutus Nero and Saints Peter and Paul also walked in Imperial Rome.
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| Ancient Rome |
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| Mark Anthony |
My friend, Jack, had mentioned the Scavi Tour of the lower tombs at St Peter's. Unfortunately they were booked for at least a month ahead, but got to talk to the Swiss guards and got into a garden area of the Vatican, I'd not otherwise seen. Can be booked by email or phone, Phone: (39/06/6988.5318) Email: uff.scavi@fabricsp.va. So instead I took a tour recommended by Mark Anthony and spent much of the day with the charming tour-guide Elle Visser and a charming lad, Stan, from Toronto, seeing St Peter's and the Vatican Museums with the amazing Sistine Chapel. How to describe the undescribable? Breathtaking!
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| Big Foot |
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| Top of St Peter's |
The only time I felt some what uncomfortable, was at the Porta Portese flea market where I was surrounded by gypsies who had only one thing in mind BUT my hand was in my front pocket over my wallet and my back backpack was in front of me and only had guide books in it, as my camera was in my other hand with it's cord wrapped around my wrist. A number of people came up to me to warn me but I'd already used my NY smarts to figure it out.
Now I had Venice to look forward to (see Venice, 2000)
-- Michael Nelsen, MNnyc
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Venice, Italy, August 2000
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| First view of Venice |
Completely changed from the way I usually experience a new place. I felt no compulsion to rush or plan. I knew instinctively, I'd wander this city and let it show me it's treasures, slowly at it's pace, not mine. So for 4 and 1/2 days that is what I did and what treasures I found.
My hotel room overlooked the roof tops of Venice, making the 5 floor climb well worth the effort. With it's heavy beamed ceiling and it's window shutters to throw open, I was in my magic castle above Venice, able to look down on my kingdom.
Quickly unpacking, I set about wandering. All the city seems to be wide streets connected by small alleyways, with narrow canals and bridges linking each island to form a patchwork quilt of magic. And through it's heart, ran The Grand Canal. Each turn offering a surprise. It felt safe and comforting, the noises natural, soft lapping of water, foot steps on cobble stones, voices echoing off buildings, softly. If it sounds romantic and magical, it's because it was.
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| Venice |
I found a lovey ristorante, Al Vagon, on a side canal and ate my first meal in Venice, three courses with wine, candle light and music. And even better, a check for $18. On Friday night I ventured to Dorsoduro area to have dinner at Ostaria ai 4 Feri, which I'd read about. Sadly they were filled and had no openings till after 11pm. So I made a reservation for the next night.On returning, I had the best meal I had during this trip to Italy !! A small lesbian-run spot located on Calle Lunga S. Barnaba, it serves huge portions of fresh vegetables and even fresher seafood. I had calamari (black ink squid) in pasta which was incredible. Also had a marvelous artichoke dish. A not-to-be-missed restaurant.
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| Ostaria ai 4 Feri - interior |
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| Ostaria ai 4 Feri |
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| Al Vagon |
What perfect a first night, I had. After crossing and recrossing the Rialto Bridge, I found myself with a full moon over St Mark's Square with it's chairs set around cloth covered table where one could sit, and while drinking a glass of wine, listen to a small orchestra play. Moonlight shimmering off the stone pavement and the waves washed gently upon the shore line, rocking the gondolas, tied to the brightly colored poles at the water's edge... more of Venice's magic.
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| St Marks |
Each morning started with the sun shining into my room over the roof tops and my decent to the small bakery on the Campiello Testori, the square outside my building, for pastries and my morning caffe (a small confession, by the last morning, I craved a large cup of really strong coffee and did stop to get a cup at an American fast-food restaurant to have with my Italian pastry).
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| Head on a Building's Corner |
To end my first day, I spent the afternoon sailing to a few of the outer Islands. Burano was the most amazing. A blaze of colors greeted me as the vaporetti glided through the sun drenched Lagoon. Each building painted with bright intense colors with an array of awnings in an array of striped fabrics hanging in front of the doors. This is where the intricate lace is made and the stark white of the lace against the bright background of the buildings amazed me.
During the course of wandering, I saw 'the sights', Basilica San Marco, Doge's Palace, the Rialto Bridge, the Bridge of Sighs, many of the fine churches, the Grand Canal, Harry's Bar and the haunts of Caravaggio near the Ghetto, named after a foundry- geto in Venetian, historically significant because, in 1516, it was the first to exist in Europe.
But more amazing was just the walking and stumbling across breathtaking views and little jewels on back streets, such as the Campo dei Mori, with it's 12th century statues of Moors built into three corners, the Palazza Contarini del Bovolo with its graceful staircase wrapping around its exterior, the gently tilting of San Giorgio dei Greci's campanile or the wonderful winged lion at the base of Daniele Manin's statue.
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| Winged Lion |
A most remarkable thing happened my second night in Venice. Just before Jim died in February, we'd talked about his meeting me in Venice for a long weekend. Alas this wasn't meant to happen but on Friday night I had the most intense dream about Jim and when I awoke, I realized, yes he really was here with me.
It was also nice to have met Ramon, an Architectural student from South America. We shared a marble bathroom joining our rooms. Sitting at The Fiddler's Elbow, the pub beneath our rooms, we'd sit and talk about Venice, Jim and 'life upon the wicked stage'. We shared stories and ideas and drank English ale.
There was also time for shopping. There are many fine craftsmen still working in tiny shops along off-the-track streets and the Carnival Masks they made! Each shopkeeper makes his own masks from basic shapes and general material. And what works of art, some of these artists create. I spent hours just looking at these masks, better than an art gallery.
I wasn't upset when it turned chilly on my third night as it allowed me to find a glove soft leather blazer, off-season priced at $150. This did me well for the last cool nights in Venice. And was perfect for wandering my last night in Venice with a fine misty rain falling, wrapping me in it's quite grip, a special image left in my soul, leaving a touch of its magic forever.
-- Michael Nelsen, MNnyc
